The Inca Trail Day 1

It's been on my bucket list to do the Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu but it is not until I met my friend Tina last year that we both firmed up the plan of going.

Our itinerary, our physical and mental conditioning took us a year to prepare. I built the itinerary where to go according to my budget. However, our physical and mental conditioning seems reversed. The more the trip is near, the more the fear is for real - the fear of trekking in high altitudes and steep mountains. But my determination and excitement to go have kept me going especially I am not going to do it alone. I say If we don't do it now, we will never going to do it.

Day 01 Cusco to Wayllabamba (12 km)

Our trek guides Edwin and Naomi picked us up early from our hotel at around 5:00 am. We were the last of the pickup. There were 12 of us hikers plus our two guides. Among us sitting on the back of the bus were our chef and his assistants. They are responsible for most of our meals during the trek. As the sun rises, we traveled past the picturesque villages of Chinchero, Urubamba, and Ollantaytambo, for the 2-hour scenic trip to kilometer 82 (the start of the Inka trail). 

Ollantaytambo

We first stopped at the town of Ollantaytambo for about an hour to have breakfast. Ollantaytambo is a village in the Sacred Valley set on the Urubamba River amid snow-capped mountains. It's known for the Ollantaytambo ruins, a massive Inca fortress with large stone terraces on a hillside. We stopped at the village's old town made of Inca-era grid of cobblestone streets and adobe buildings. The train also stops here which makes it easy for day trips from Cusco. I would stay here for at least a couple of days for exploration. It is great for photo enthusiasts and even for writers, I would think.

We immediately filled the small restaurant located on the second floor above a convenience store in the plaza. The cashier/server/ were suddenly inundated with orders and payers that she hardly smile and her demeanor is abrupt. I can tell she is stressed out about getting everyone's breakfast as fast as she could before the next bus arrives. After breakfast, we picked up a few things from the store. I also bought two flimsy plastic raincoats from a local vendor. They are a lot lighter than the ones we brought from Canada. Tina bought some snacks.

KM 82

In another hour, we arrived at Km 82, the starting point of our hike to Macchu Pichu. Our hired porters were already waiting in the roughly cemented parking lot. They quickly took out our luggage from the bus and dropped them on the plastic mat spread out on the ground along with the rented sleeping bags and sleeping mat. We picked up one of each and slide them inside the duffel bags, which were provided to us by our Tour Operator, and will be carried by porters on their back. Also, we rented hiking poles from our guide which is very much recommended.

I soon found out that the first day of the trek was relatively easy and served as warm up for the days to follow. Prior to this day, I shamelessly admit that I was anxious amidst the excitement and anticipation of being finally here. The fear of long walk, becoming tired and slowing down the group looms in my head. Above all that, the fear of thin air that can cause altitude sickness which was evident in Cusco. Luckily my excitement and sense of adventure have put these thoughts on the back burner only to get reminded when I arrived in Km 82. Just as we were about to start, I had the urge to go to the bathroom. I had to run to the public toilet to do one last attempt since my visits to the one in the lobby hotel and again in the restaurant in Ollantaytambo were just false alarm. Again this is also a false alarm. I concluded that it must be my nerve that is stirring up my stomach.

We walked down a few steps towards the Vilcanota River and turned right following the trail to the checkpoint by the bridge where they check our permit and passport. Halfway to the checkpoint, we post for a group photo in front of the big familiar sign that I've seen in many posted photos on the internet that says "Camino Inka-Inka Trail". Having seen the signpost and after the checkpoint, we crossed the river on a bridge and I continued filming. I soon felt like being at the moment. Even as we climb steeply up from the bridge, my adrenaline kicked in and I am no longer afraid. Intimidated by the steep climb but not afraid. I am looking forward to seeing what is before me and beyond. 

The first leg was hot and dusty. Trees were scarce and we were exposed to the blazing sun. After half an hour or so, we passed through a small village where we took a rest under a shade and received a welcome speech from Naomi, our guide. Then we continued on to the ruins of the Inca hillfort of Huillca Raccay high above the mouth of the river Cusichaca ('happy bridge'). The cool wind was welcoming and the view was epic. The Incas, when they conquered the area, built a fort here since the site commanded an excellent view up and down the Urubamba valley and controlled the entrance to the Cusichaca valley. It is a simple descent down to the Cusichaca river. From parts of this trail, we had great views of the Cordillera Urubamba (Urubamba mountain range) and the snow-capped peak of Veronica at 5860m.

We also got a good view over the extensive Inca ruins of Llactapata (also known as Patallacta on some maps). Llactapata means 'upper town' in Quechua and was first discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and was primarily an agricultural station used to supply Machu Picchu with corn, the staple crop of the Incas. The settlement comprised over one hundred buildings, houses for the workers and soldiers, including five baths. Of course, none of that exists anymore but remnants of what was before.

For a further 7 km, the path follows the left bank of the river up to the small village of Wayllabamba (3,000m). The name in Quechua means 'grassy plain'. We spent the night here. It was still light when we arrived and the porters were busy setting up our tents. The chef and his assistants set up a dining tent and served us dinner worthy of praise. There is only one outhouse for everyone to use. It is a matter of this one or behind the bush. No choice really and one needs a strong gut to overcome this one. I realized later as high up we go any deeper in the mountain, it gets even worst. Surprisingly, I have not heard any complaint from my friend Tina. She explained later that being a diver, she is accustomed to this extreme lack of facilities.