The Inca Trail Day 3

Day 03: Pacamayo to WinayaWayna (15km)

The next morning of our day 3 of 4 days trek, the fog was very thick and so we put on our flimsy raincoat. We had early breakfast as we had to start early because it is going to be the longest trek about 12 km. We left at 7 am after the other groups. From Pacamayo it took us about half an hour to climb up to the ruins of Runkuracay. These small circular ruins occupy a commanding position overlooking the Pacamayo valley below. We positioned ourselves in one of the circular areas while our guide Naomi gave us some historical background. It is hard for me to listen to her thick Peruvian accent that I looked around and filmed instead while feigning to listen to her. I thought I could just read about it from the book I bought in Cuzco.

Picture Perfect forever etched in my mind

Another 45 minutes of a beautiful picture-perfect hike to the top of the second pass: Abra de Runkuracay (4,000m). In this part we are walking along the trail of the Incas paving, for the most part, being the original. The morning dew and misty air and some pond made the place looks surreal. I could just stand there and soak it all in but Edwin was calling us from the top to keep up. When I reached the pass surrounded by big rocks at around 9:30 am, the group is getting ready to descend, adjusting all our trekking poles. The descent down the stone steps from the pass is very steep passing cave-like sections and tunnels. This section of the trail, up until the 3rd pass, is insanely beautiful as the path crosses high stone embankments and skirts deep precipices.

Check my video to see what I mean.

After about one hour from the second pass, we arrive at Sayacmarca by way of a superbly designed stone staircase. The name Sayacmarca means 'Inaccessible Town' and describes the position of the ruins perfectly, protected on three sides by sheer cliffs. No one knows the exact purpose of these ruins. Then we passed Conchamarca ruins, a small Inca dwelling situated in the shadows of Sayacmarca. My group climbed to the ruins while I decided to go ahead to the next camp to use their toilet. Tina decided to accompany me. Then we found ourselves in the path that descends into a magnificent cloud forest full of orchids, hanging mosses, tree ferns, and flowers, passing through an impressive Inca tunnel, carved into the rock, on the way. It was like an Eden garden. When we reached a camp which is perched on an open area, I used the toilet facility. The camp is well kept and looks more like an upgrade to the regular camp that the majority use. Anyway, Tina waited for me but to no avail, my stomach is just giving me false alarm again.

Inca tunnel

As we continued, our group caught on and we all walked together to our lunch pit stop passing another tunnel. When we arrived at our pit stop, Edwin took my walking polls and my backpack so I hurried to the toilet down below and washed at the same time. I also noticed as I was removing my gears, a young middle eastern man sitting on a bamboo chair was watching. I couldn't see his eyes for he is wearing dark sunglasses but my intuition sends an alert that I looked over to check. He didn't move nor abate his gaze or the direction of his gaze. His sunglasses made him dare to stare. He has a serious look, but he is good-looking at the least so I thought to myself, no need to be scared. He seemed to be a solo trekker from another group.

After a quick lunch and a mad dash down to the toilet once again, we are on the trail. The trail then climbs up to the 3rd pass (3,700m). The view from the pass offers excellent views of several snow-capped peaks including Salkantay (6,180m) and Veronica (5,750m). A few minutes after the pass is Phuyupatamarca, the most impressive Inca ruin so far. The name means 'Town in the Clouds'. Access to the ruins is down a steep flight of stairs passing six 'Inca Baths' probably used for the ritual worship of water. All the stories told to us are just made up by historians who never knew the real story of these ruins. As we leave the site, we head down through an impressive Inca staircase leading from the west side of the ruins (the far end from the baths), we descended through what is called "A Thousand Steps".

cloud forest

After about an hour of walking through the cloud forest and another 2 hours until we reached down to the ruins of Winaya Wayna which is the last official campsite before Machu Picchu. When we reached the ruins at the edge of agricultural terraces, we thought we hit a dead end. Earlier, our guides Edwin and Naomi gave an instruction that when we reach the end, to take the left of a fork which confused all of us. When the Chinese couple reached the edge of rice terraces and didn't see any fork, they started climbing back up and soon met the New Zealander couple that was behind them and told them to go back. I was behind the New Zealander couple and I argued that we haven't seen any fork yet as we to catch up with them. When the Chinese couple reached the group, I and the New Zealander guy decided to go down and check the trail ourselves. He told his wife who passed the message to them. It is nearing sundown and we said we give ourselves 15 minutes and if we couldn't find the trail, we climb back up. I am pretty sure that we are on the right path. However, when we reached the landing part of the flat terraces, there is no signage to point us in the direction of the camp. I checked the edge of the precipices and I can only see narrow steps leading down the terraces into the woods. I could hear voices from a camp down below so I know we are near. However my companion said we must head back in case this is the wrong way, so we started ascending and I tried hard to keep up with him. After 10 minutes of climbing, I saw Edwin our guide, coming down followed by the group. So I stopped and knew then that we are on the right path so I turned around and went down to wait for them below on the landing and I am followed by the New Zealander couple.

deep stair steps below Abra de Runkuracay

Edwin reached me at the edge of the landing and pointed in the direction of the trail. We walked towards the edge of the terrace and went down to the next terraces. From where we are, we could see the river below and the train tracks leading to Machu Picchu.

The others stopped at the landing top taking on the view of the valley and decided to take pictures. Meanwhile, I really needed to use the toilet so Edwin said to go ahead pointing to follow the path. I started making my way through the edge of the terraces down to the small man-made dirt stairs leading to the next terraces. I heard the New Zealander lady following me who decided to come with me. So we climbed down the steps onto the third terrace where the trail leads into the woods. Soon we reached the woods and the darkness came and I used my iPhone light to guide us. I looked up and see the groups starting to descend with their headlights on. As we entered the woods, I can tell the New Zealander lady was a little nervous so I guided her and assured her confidently that we are not very far. We finally reached the camp in the dark that's when I saw the fork. There were porters waiting who guided us to our campsite which is on the left of the fork. I could no longer decipher what's around me for it is really dark except for some lights coming from some of the tents. I could see shadows and silhouettes of the many tents perked on the different levels of the terraces.

After half an hour, the rest of the group arrived. My friend was a bit annoyed telling me that the other people were mad at our guide for giving us the wrong direction and also for not being with us the entire time. They threatened to complain about them and the company. She also said that I should apologize because the Chinese guy was going to look for me if I didn't show up at the top when they reached the group. I was slow on the take. I didn't understand the confusion especially when they were interrogating me at dinner time. Asking me how I end up at the camp before them. They didn't remember that I was the one who went down with the New Zealander guy to double-check the trail after they told us it's the wrong way. They also didn't notice that I was with Edwin waiting for them to complete their descent to the landing but they decided to stop and take photos. It didn't occur to me until later that it was a blaming game because the Chinese couple made a mistake thinking it was a dead-end and told a bunch of us to climb back up so they stir the story towards me so they don't look like a fool. Climbing back up is a big endeavor only to go back down again. It was a waste of time and energy.

At dinner time, our guide Naomi presented the crew to us. From the chef to his assistants and the porter. We also pooled some money to give to them as our tip. Naomi gave a speech and asked us to do the same. My friend pointed to the New Zealander guy and me to make the speech on behalf of the group. He thanked all of them as he handed the tip. My speech was more directed. I thanked all the porters who carried our luggage, the crew who pitched our tent and handed drinks and water to clean our hands and feet, without them our trek would have been much more difficult. I thank the chefs and his crew whose meals we looked forward to every day. All in all, I thank all of them because they did all the work while we only walked.

That night, I spent thinking recounting the events of the day. Where it started so beautifully ended up with some sour notes. I couldn't understand why my friend was annoyed with me and why the others were interrogating me. This is also the first time that I reached the camp first only because I was rushing to go to the toilet. In hindsight, I realized I made them worried and they were only looking after me. In case I was really lost and left behind, they were ready to look for me.