The Inca Trail Day 2

Day 02: Wayllabamba to Pacamayo (12km)

Our guide told us our wake-up time is when the roosters make "cock-a-doodle-doo" noise at precisely 5:00 am. I woke up before that and it's still pitch dark, needing to go to the toilet but I held up until dawn. True enough it was at five when the first rooster crowed. I tried to get more sleep but soon after, Edwin our guide were doing his rounds giving out hot tea in his long johns. 

Our breakfast was already set up when we came out of our sleeping tents. The porters were so fast in dismantling our tent and packing them. We were advised to carry only what is necessary and travel light for today we are going to undertake the highest and steepest climb to dead woman's pass. We had to pay an extra $20 for the porter to carry our backpacks. I noticed only me and Tina and another couple dump our backpacks. I pulled out my light day pack for my light jacket, snack, and extra water. At breakfast, hot tea and instant coffee and cream were being passed around the table. I had assorted cutup fruits, oatmeal, and a toast. The mood is light and friendlier. One girl is suffering from stomach cramps since day 1 so the guides were extra attentive to her food. 

It was about 8:00 am when we started out and immediately we were climbing up steep from Wayllabamba. For every 100 steps I would stop and rest to catch my breath. One hundred steps is my goal before stopping but soon it is getting shorter and I was falling behind. Every time my heart starts pumping hard, it is a cue for me to stop. In about one hour, we reached  'Tres Piedres' (three stones) and a small bridge over the Huayruro river. There is a small campsite here with toilet facilities. A little further on we entered a beautiful cloud forest. A further three hours trek through steepening woods and increasingly spectacular terrain brought us to the treeline and a meadow known as Llulluchapampa (3,680m). It was hot and dusty. An older couple in the group decided to tread with me in my pace. They were carrying big backpacks. I told them the key is a steady slow pace. A Chinese couple was also lagging behind. We were running out of water for the place we passed buy where normally a vendor is stationed is not there. One guy gave me some of his water. The guide also gave me a coca leaves to chew which helps with dehydration. When we reached our lunch pit stop, there were a few vendors lined up with different types of energy drinks and water. Tina and I were glorious. A welcome drink also awaits us handed to us by a young good looking Peruvian. Yeah despite of the energy drained situation, I still managed to be observant.

During lunch, I openly expressed my opinion about what I know regarding the deadly high altitude acute syndrome and how to not rush in climbing. According to Tina, some asked her if my profession is in medical field. Since I am the slowest, I may have given them the impression that I am the weakest because I always get the question "Are you okay?" and I always answer "Yes I am fine".  I don't like getting tired and I never want to get my heart thumping that I always slow down and kept my heart rate below 100 bpm. Plus having an end guide who kept me company and enjoy my snack together, made my hike more cheerful. I was also able to film and get my photo taken.

After lunch at around 1:00 pm, it was another 3 hours climb to the first and highest pass of the trail (Abra de Huarmihuausca or 'Dead Woman's Pass) at 4,200 m. During this part of the trail, the trees were getting scarce. We were following the contour of the mountain and the image of a face of a woman lying down is visible before us up on the mountain as we were nearing the dead woman's pass. It gets harder and slower as we reach the pass. It is the most difficult section of the trail. Tina lagged from the rest of the group and kept near my side. It was past 4 pm when Tina and I reached the top. We were emotional especially for Tina as she had difficulty breathing. I waited for her in the last 200 meters, for she would stop and catch her breath every six to twelve steps. I could see the group at the top. They descended on the other side of the mountain after half an hour resting and only Edwin our end guide waited for us at dead woman's pass.

Dead Woman's Pass

The descent from the pass is steep on evenly flat large boulder stones steps . Although not difficult, I was jumping from stone to stone in a fast controlled pace knowing that it will be dark in an hour. We are following the trail on the left side of the valley to the valley floor and to our second night's campsite at Pacamayo (3,600m). Edwin directed us to a shortcut, cutting straight through to the campsite instead of going around the bend.  The campsite was cramped. I don't know how many groups were at the site. There is also a toilet facility but really dirty and we had to go down through terraces to get there and in the dark. I wouldn't even dare describe the common toilet facility. Though the size is bigger than the other camp but let's just say, I kept my mask to cover my nose while I was there and I scurried back up to our tent looking like a wimpy kid dodging some of the trekkers on their way down. It is the most inconvenient and crowded campsite. For the first time, I noticed some of the trekkers, young and good looking, sporting the latest outdoor outfits in their neon colors.

 After dinner, we just crashed in our tent and went to sleep without so much cleaning up. We kept our dirty shoes inside our tent as per our guide's advice. We were given a plastic bag for it. The night is cold and hot at the same time. My feet are hot inside our sleeping bags but my exposed head is cold even with a beanie. I charged my camera inside my sleeping bag overnight to keep it warm. I slept uncomfortably over the night.