Exploring Cusco Peru on foot in my last day.

After properly acclimatized, it is easier to walk around Cusco like normal without the shortness of breath due to high altitude. I already did the four days hike of the Inca Trail to Machu Pichu, a day in Aquas Calientes toured the Sacred Valley, and traveled for three days to Puno and Lake Titikaka. Now I am spending my remaining days in Cusco chilling, window shopping, visiting several plazas and churches. There's a lot to see in Peru, and I wish someday to go back again.

To see more of Cusco, check my previous video before our Inca Trail hike to Machu Picchu. We spent three days acclimatizing to the high altitude which kind of slowed us down at first.

https://youtu.be/_-lAAL1aL4s

Post Inca Trail Day 5 - Exploring Aquas Calientes

After four days of hiking, we finally made it to the Sun Gate where we waited for the sun to rise and the clouds to clear to see the beauty of Machu Picchu. Then in Aquas Calientes, the town below Machu Picchu, we all gathered in the restaurant for our last meal together as a group. Edwin, our guide distributed the certificate that says "We Survived The Inca Trail".

My friend and I stayed in Aquas Calientes for one night while most of our group boarded the 6:20 pm train back to Cusco. Originally I planned to go back to Machu Picchu to do more exploring in the morning but after four days of rigid hiking up in the Andes and explored many ruins along the way, we decided to just stay in the town below Machu Picchu, called Aquas Calientes which means Hot Springs in English.

Aguas Calientes is a town in the Urubamba River Valley. It’s known for its thermal baths and as a gateway to the nearby Inca ruins of Machu Picchu. The town center is full of eateries and shops, anchored by the central Mercado Artesanal, a craft market.

The town is just small surrounded by towering hills, rivers and many train tracks. It is the base before going up to Machu Picchu ruins. There are several ways to get to Machu Picchu. You can go there by bus from Aquas Calientes, by hiking from Aquas Calientes or via several Inca Trails. For us, we joined organized four days treks starting from KM 82. It is a very challenging trek going through two high mountain passes where the air is thin which made it harder to hike.

The Inca Trail Day 4 - Machu Picchu Ruins

Day 04: Winawayna to Machu Picchu (5km)
We set out really early before dawn to reach the Sun Gate. From the Sun Gate, we can see Machu Picchu in all its glory when the clouds lift. It was very epic and my most proud accomplishment. My first ever hike and highest mountain. At 50 plus, it is no feat but I made it. Thank God for looking over me and my group. A few suffered minor altitude sickness but we arrived healthy and in high spirit.

The Inca Trail Day 3

Day 03: Pacamayo to WinayaWayna (15km)

The next morning of our day 3 of 4 days trek, the fog was very thick and so we put on our flimsy raincoat. We had early breakfast as we had to start early because it is going to be the longest trek about 12 km. We left at 7 am after the other groups. From Pacamayo it took us about half an hour to climb up to the ruins of Runkuracay. These small circular ruins occupy a commanding position overlooking the Pacamayo valley below. We positioned ourselves in one of the circular areas while our guide Naomi gave us some historical background. It is hard for me to listen to her thick Peruvian accent that I looked around and filmed instead while feigning to listen to her. I thought I could just read about it from the book I bought in Cuzco.

Picture Perfect forever etched in my mind

Another 45 minutes of a beautiful picture-perfect hike to the top of the second pass: Abra de Runkuracay (4,000m). In this part we are walking along the trail of the Incas paving, for the most part, being the original. The morning dew and misty air and some pond made the place looks surreal. I could just stand there and soak it all in but Edwin was calling us from the top to keep up. When I reached the pass surrounded by big rocks at around 9:30 am, the group is getting ready to descend, adjusting all our trekking poles. The descent down the stone steps from the pass is very steep passing cave-like sections and tunnels. This section of the trail, up until the 3rd pass, is insanely beautiful as the path crosses high stone embankments and skirts deep precipices.

Check my video to see what I mean.

After about one hour from the second pass, we arrive at Sayacmarca by way of a superbly designed stone staircase. The name Sayacmarca means 'Inaccessible Town' and describes the position of the ruins perfectly, protected on three sides by sheer cliffs. No one knows the exact purpose of these ruins. Then we passed Conchamarca ruins, a small Inca dwelling situated in the shadows of Sayacmarca. My group climbed to the ruins while I decided to go ahead to the next camp to use their toilet. Tina decided to accompany me. Then we found ourselves in the path that descends into a magnificent cloud forest full of orchids, hanging mosses, tree ferns, and flowers, passing through an impressive Inca tunnel, carved into the rock, on the way. It was like an Eden garden. When we reached a camp which is perched on an open area, I used the toilet facility. The camp is well kept and looks more like an upgrade to the regular camp that the majority use. Anyway, Tina waited for me but to no avail, my stomach is just giving me false alarm again.

The Inca Trail Day 2

Day 02: Wayllabamba to Pacamayo (12km)

Our guide told us our wake-up time is when the roosters make "cock-a-doodle-doo" noise at precisely 5:00 am. I woke up before that and it's still pitch dark, needing to go to the toilet but I held up until dawn. True enough it was at five when the first rooster crowed. I tried to get more sleep but soon after, Edwin our guide were doing his rounds giving out hot tea in his long johns. 

Our breakfast was already set up when we came out of our sleeping tents. The porters were so fast in dismantling our tent and packing them. We were advised to carry only what is necessary and travel light for today we are going to undertake the highest and steepest climb to dead woman's pass. We had to pay an extra $20 for the porter to carry our backpacks. I noticed only me and Tina and another couple dump our backpacks. I pulled out my light day pack for my light jacket, snack, and extra water. At breakfast, hot tea and instant coffee and cream were being passed around the table. I had assorted cutup fruits, oatmeal, and a toast. The mood is light and friendlier. One girl is suffering from stomach cramps since day 1 so the guides were extra attentive to her food. 

The Inca Trail Day 1

It's been on my bucket list to do the Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu but it is not until I met my friend Tina last year that we both firmed up the plan of going.

Our itinerary, our physical and mental conditioning took us a year to prepare. I built the itinerary where to go according to my budget. However, our physical and mental conditioning seems reversed. The more the trip is near, the more the fear is for real - the fear of trekking in high altitudes and steep mountains. But my determination and excitement to go have kept me going especially I am not going to do it alone. I say If we don't do it now, we will never going to do it.

Day 01 Cusco to Wayllabamba (12 km)

Our trek guides Edwin and Naomi picked us up early from our hotel at around 5:00 am. We were the last of the pickup. There were 12 of us hikers plus our two guides. Among us sitting on the back of the bus were our chef and his assistants. They are responsible for most of our meals during the trek. As the sun rises, we traveled past the picturesque villages of Chinchero, Urubamba, and Ollantaytambo, for the 2-hour scenic trip to kilometer 82 (the start of the Inka trail). 

Ollantaytambo

We first stopped at the town of Ollantaytambo for about an hour to have breakfast. Ollantaytambo is a village in the Sacred Valley set on the Urubamba River amid snow-capped mountains. It's known for the Ollantaytambo ruins, a massive Inca fortress with large stone terraces on a hillside. We stopped at the village's old town made of Inca-era grid of cobblestone streets and adobe buildings. The train also stops here which makes it easy for day trips from Cusco. I would stay here for at least a couple of days for exploration. It is great for photo enthusiasts and even for writers, I would think.

Peru Day 7-9 Cusco

Acclimatization in Cusco Peru

Plaza de Armas

At 11,340 feet high with thinner air than North American countries. It makes one non-Andean like me to slow down or aged three decades for four days. So we need to acclimatize in order to go back to normal breathing and pace. 

We left Arequipa on Sunday the 25th at 8:30 pm via Exclusiva Bus co. since all direct flight to Cusco is fully booked. We want to be in Cusco early to properly acclimatize before the start of our 4-day trek on Friday. The bus ride took 11 hours and the seats recline to 180 degrees. It was our bed for the night.

On the bus, Tina complained of a headache and she is not feeling well and so she decided to sleep it off. I wondered if this is the effect of the high altitude. I already started taking my Diamox tablet in Arequipa per my travel clinic instruction. Tina has not taken hers yet as her instruction is different from mine. We had a bit of a debate on this but decided we follow what each of our health practitioners advised us to stop the debacle. Diamox tablet is acetazolamide that is used to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness. According to my research, this medication can decrease a headache, tiredness, nausea, dizziness, and shortness of breath that can occur when you climb quickly to high altitudes (generally above 10,000 feet / 3,048 meters). 

Peru Day 5 & 6 - White City Arequipa

Arequipa 7,314 feet above sea level.

I was asleep in most part of the Cruz del Sur overnight bus ride from Nazca to Arequipa City. In fact, I fell asleep as soon as we left Nazca around midnight. I woke up twice when the bus was going through zigzag road up in the mountains and when Tina woke me up to look at the beautiful coastline. 

Arequipa is the colonial-era capital of Peru’s Arequipa Region. Framed by 3 volcanoes, it's filled with baroque buildings constructed from sillar, a white volcanic stone. Its historic center is anchored by the Plaza de Armas, a stately main square flanked on its north by the 17th-century neoclassical Basilica Cathedral, which houses a museum displaying religious objects and artwork. It is Peru's second-biggest city after Lima with over 861,000 inhabitants.

The road leading to Arequipa is beautiful and I was able to glimpse parts of it going through narrows in between high rocks and tunnels. As we near Arequipa in the bright morning, two of the three distinct majestic volcanoes are dominating the city skyline making it unique from any city I know. Arequipa's prominent volcanoes are called Misty, Chachani, and the extinct volcanic groups Pichu Pichu. 

Peru Day 4 - Overflight Nazca Line

Overflight to see Nasca Line

We left Huacachina around 7 am this morning and we took the Peru Tour bus to the town of Nazca (3 hours ride). In Nazca, we took the dizzying overflight to see the famous Nazca lines, and at 4-6 pm will be checking it out from the ground. 

We booked the Nazca line tour through our hostel Banana Adventure in Huacachina last night. The tour operator had a taxi picked us up at the hotel this morning and was escorted by the cutie front desk Tito to Peru Bus in Ica. In Nazca, we were picked up by the tour operator and took us to his office and also a hostel to drop off our luggage before going to the airport. The process was very confusing not being able to speak Spanish.

Peru Day 3 - Oasis Huacachina

On our way to Huacachina

It was still dark when Tina and I checked out of our hotel in Miraflores. We had to wake up the receptionist to call a taxi to take us to the Cruz del Zur bus station. The ride took us about 15 minutes and $5. I booked our bus reservation online via Go2Peru Travel leaving at 7:00 AM arriving at Ica around noon. From Ica we were going to take a taxi to Huacachina. The process is pretty smooth and the terminal is pretty decent. If I may say, it is nice and clean. As I checked-in in at the desk counter, Tina went out looking for coffee. She came back with a small paper cup with black coffee from a street vendor which she thought overcharged her. 

Meanwhile, I was taking some videos and photos as I tried to document our travel. We are both amateurish in filming but I say Tina is ready to jump in doing commentary. I don't really care if we are doing it right. I just want to document our travel adventure in Peru. I am feeling very excited about it. There is no feeling of fear in my surroundings. We are still careful and always scanning for any suspicious person around us but in general, I am getting a good vibe from this country. The transportation system is very organized. As we lined up to the bus, our bags went through the security scanner and they took pictures of each of us.

Peru Day 2 - Lima and Miraflores

We arrived in Lima last night at around 11:00 PM. After collecting Tina's luggage at the carousel, we rushed through the immigration, and luckily it was a short lineup. We got our passport stamped then we stopped at the taxi green booth by the exit door. It is the airport official taxi with a fixed price. After we paid for the taxi ticket, we were escorted to our white sedan taxi cab, not green. The airport wasn't as chaotic as I expected but then again we arrived late in the evening. The taxi driver is very friendly and spoke only Spanish. He was telling us about the different districts in Lima. The drive was nice for about 20 minutes.

We are staying at a cute guest house Casa Serena in Miraflores, a modern area near the Pacific Ocean. The guesthouse's gate was locked when we arrived and the light was dimmed so we thought we were at the wrong place. The taxi driver assured us it is the right place. It looks just like a house with a small front garden with an iron fence. The driver knocked on the gate and waited until someone opened the door for us. A young guy who looked like we woke him up checked us in. He asked us to be quiet when we go up to our room on the second floor. We didn't get our preferred twin bed and so Tina and I had to share a queen bed. I was a bit disappointed but he offered to move us the next day but we couldn't be bothered to pack and repack again so we stayed in the room

Checking out Larcomar.

The first order of the day after breakfast is going to a currency exchange office. There are several in Miraflores which offer competitive rates. Then we took a taxi for $5 and asked the driver to take us to the nearest shopping area and he dropped us at Larcomar by the Pacific Ocean. I was thrilled to see the ocean. We walked around the mall looking for a coffee shop with a view. We spotted Mangos restaurant that has a wide terrace with a great view of the ocean and the servers, mostly male are wearing pink shirts. First, we ordered coffee, then we ended up trying the popular Peruvian ceviche (raw seafood marinated in lemon), Cusquena Negra (dark, sweet malt beer), and pisco sours (Peruvian origin alcoholic drink).

Peru Day 1 - My Journey Begins

Tess at Terminal 1 Toronto

It is finally happening. After several days of packing and re-packing, checking my list and finalizing itinerary bookings, my friend Tina and I are flying to Lima Peru today. It is our gateway to Cuzco where we are going to tackle the 4-day hike to Machu Picchu along the sacred pilgrimage route of the Inca Trail. I was already wide awake when my son came to wake me up this morning to drop him off at school. My flight is not until 12:35 pm. I have plenty of time so I am pretty relaxed and none of the jitters from prior days of packing. The first flight is via United Airlines to Houston Texas. While waiting to board, Tina and I are talking about grabbing late lunch at the Houston airport before catching our next flight. We have about 1.5 hours layover.

To account for what is to be expected once we get to Lima, it will be before midnight and probably around 1:00 am when we reach our hotel. We are staying at a guest house Casa Serena in Miraflores.  Miraflores is an exclusive residential and upscale shopping district south of downtown Lima. Casa Serena is within walking distance of many restaurants and parks. It is not very far from the Pacific ocean according to Google Maps. We haven't decided how are we going to spend our one day in Lima yet but one thing for sure we are going to check a couple of restaurants and try Pisco Sours, a popular Peruvian drink.

Packing for Peru and Inca Trail

Three more sleep before I embark on Peru. I am on my fifth time re-packing and checking my list of essentials. I took all my shots weeks ago and I already packed my travel medicines, travel documents, small beauty kit and toiletries in my backpack and my other essentials in my carry-on luggage. I am carrying everything with me. I have no checked-in luggage.

My essentials are my breathable hiking boots, merino wool socks, and undies, my lightweight Gore-Tex jacket, lightweight down jacket, six sets of clothes and sports bras, ponchos, headlamps, battery chargers, and sleepwear. I am leaving my fleece only because I have no room in my carry-on. I am determined to travel light, one of my criteria for travelling now.

Challenge: can I really live in six sets of clothes for 25 days? Maybe? ....maybe even less ... I still have two days to decide what to take out. My toiletries and makeup are down to two small kits. The hardest decision is leaving my DSLR camera... I keep packing it and taking it off... bearing in mind that the porter will only carry 6 kg of our personal luggage on the trail and that includes the sleeping bags and mat that we rented.

I am excited and anxious at the same time!!!!! I am going to tackle the Inca Trail up in the Andes going to Machu Picchu. It is crazy as it sounds crazy..... I am crazy... !!!!